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WishlistSeeing / being
Subjectivity is the ability of a person through the presence of will and interest to act in the public field of life to see their needs, express and realize them. To be an agent-subject, i.e. an actively acting person, a driving force.
The current historical field of action / certain forms of governance / the virtual field of artificial reality / take away from man his subjectivity and make him an object in the „hands of a narrow system“ of ideas about reality.
The subject is excluded from the field of active personal impact on the world. His place in the life of society is „pixelized“ / he is forbidden to be visible in the „real“ reality. He is not to be recognized.
This is the spectrum from still-not-presence, not being brought into the conditioned virtual field of reality (Google) to crossing out the bodies and faces of those killed in military conflicts. It ranges from the narcissist’s self-obsession (Caravaggio) to violence (Klimt’s „The Kiss“). Works of art act as inspirational reference points for the collection.
Fabric / texture
In the collection there is an active presence of prints on fabric: a pixel pattern (crossing out the subject as an agent of his interests), a piece of enlarged graphiti, symbolizing on the one hand the freedom to express oneself as an unbridled creator, trapped within the framework of „urban culture“ and looking for a way to influence society, and on the other hand the vandalic statement of oneself, flouting the established social norms of free will.
And also the recycled theme of camouflage with flecks of golden tones, symbolizing the search for „shelter“, protection from overabundance on the scale: „The system is the subject’s personal will“.
Transparent black mesh gives shape and presents multi-layeredness. Transparency as an element of high fabric technology that presages the subject on a scale from a mechanism operating according to the laws of gravity to the eroticization of human perception of self and others.
Gold and yellow tones symbolize the HUMAN SUBJECT as a source (gold mine), the main resource of human society.
In the collection there are fabrics with carbon coating, protecting from weather conditions: utilitarian aspect of clothes, from the point of view of form and fashion, giving in the growing trend of „lushness of forms / draperies“ the potential for stability and plasticity.
The color palette of the collection includes black, lavender, comouflage green, yellow / ochre / gold.
One piece combines coated fabrics (more in the front of the garment to express weather protection and representativeness in business casual and knitwear on the back of pants or jackets) for ease of movement and to give the piece a relaxed/casual feel.
Form / content
The collection takes into account the needs of the clients on a scale from being seen to seeing their own needs, relating them to the specific geopolitical situation and the current historical moment.
Paying tribute to the trend that is coming at us like a Hokusai wave: the collection includes pouf sleeves, wide Marlene pants, voluminous sweaters made of technical mesh in several layers, voluminous cropped jackets, with a hood, with a zipper that unzips in the middle of its shape and becomes a collar, which can be worn over any personal, already present in the closet items of clothing, indicating only interest in the trend. The ordinariness / utilitarianism of the „Marlene“ pants is being flouted by the big trend.
Casuality / unexpectedness / creativity is welcomed, as well as distance from the human body with the help of bloated shapes and large sizes. The freedom to fit the body is over the top. Through this trend, society is manifesting a „dead end“ in the social and economic sense.
The presence in the collection of hats with brim hints at the „secret agents of the system“ in the context of the confrontation of poltical systems and is cleansed of the patina of „social conspiracy“ – an agent of one’s personal subjectivity: protection from the sun or heat / like it or dislike it / gaining a new experience – I’ve never worn this before / a new experience of self-perception.
The transformation of the form, according to the social situation (work, yoga, party, theater, concert) is an important component of the collection.
The client-agent has the right and uses it to transform a particular item on his/her body from oversize to fitted with a single movement of the hand with the help of „secret“ tie-up-agents as well as external clip accessories.
Transformation / statement
The more one is excluded from the social field, the more fashion begins to flourish in its „isms“ in order to apply the vector of activity at least to one’s body.
The transformation, reformation, deformation of clothing in all its diversity comes to the fore – a reflection of our ability to be an agent/conductor of our creative abilities to perceive ourselves, others and the world at large.
The zippers used in different parts of the garment have the functionality to turn the hood into a collar, the collar itself to make it even more open and given the climatic or social conditions of a particular moment, exposing the shoulders and eroticizing the body.
The golden rubber belts with suspender clasps are available in four sizes and can also be used as a hat band: a gust of wind will not be able to carry the hat away. Transformation happens in the moment, the new accessory shows the creativity of the wearer.
Lena Kvadrat, 2023